Purple color of weed come from Anthocyanin pigment, a universal plant colorant responsible for the red, purple, and blue; evident in many fruits, vegetable, grains, flowers. Anthocyanin suggests the vast list of health benefits; and many medicine theories (traditional ones from all around the world and the official science too) use Anthocyanin historically to treat conditions such as liver disorders, diarrhoea, kidney problems, infections, it provides the reduction of blood pressure, it improves the eyesight, suppresses the development of cancer cells; and it even cures the common cold. Many shall agree it’s extremely easy to imagine raspberry (which contains the hell amount of anthocyanin) as a medicine, in a form of some grandma’s anti-cold raspberry recipe. And besides the healing it is used as a natural colour in food/health/cosmetic industries.
And right here below there’s the very nice close-up from @chewberto420, you can see that all the purple (or red) colour is Anthocyanin, it approaches into cannabis trichomes:
Being a phenolic compound, Anthocyanin may also behave as the pro-oxidant, means: it plays against cancer, diabetes, urinal and cardio issues. Yet it is not well known by now about how exactly it works, whether by itself alone or being a component of a more complicated sequence, but it however works as it’s said and it makes your body stronger for sure. So! Eat berries! They are yummies, and you can cook them along with cannabis into delicious cannabis desserts, find the hot edible recipes here by this link: The Cookbook App by Chef420
How To Make The Weed Purple
Exposure to cold
Exactly the thing happening when summer turns into fall when all plants change leaves to yellow and red: all plants produce Anthocyanin when the temperatures drop.
Basically from any stress plants produce Anthocyanin, and the cold is one of such stresses. The science does not know for sure by far, but this may serve as some sort of explanation why it helps against health issues, right because plant just do the same when synthesize the anthocyanin in itself, and it works to suppress a stress, illness or cold or a wrong nutrition. Exposure of the cannabis plant to colder temperatures shall make buds more purple, the “how long” and “how cold” can be a more tricky technology, but the basic idea is to expose the plant to the cold.
Genetic food engineering uses anthocyanin as a visual marker, as soon as this is a quite forgiving genetic material easy to deal with (sources say so, I don’t know))). And then it may be yet another reason for purple buds – the genetically determined amount of anthocyanin in a certain strain.
Anthocyanin Color from PH
Anthocyanin is very sensible to the PH level (and this is another stress for the plant too), and the colourful compound is degraded to none in an environment with a higher PH. It changes it colour as soon as PH level changes, it can be red in acidic (pH < 7), purple in neutral (pH = 7), yellow with greenish in alkaline (pH > 7). Can serve as the natural PH indicator either.
Do experiments! Keep notes of what you’re doing!
This is how you get the amount of Purple into the trichomes of your weed. And here the following is about what else to do with it:
Except of in the Cannabis flowers, especially those showing a lot of the purple colour, a whole lot of Anthocyanin can be also found in these:
Pretty everything as long as it is a fruit, or a vegetable or a flower and have the vast and the obvious cyan / purple component in the color (in terms of CMYK or RGB idea of describing the colour), alike to all the images above. Anthocyanin carriers can be Red Cabbage, Cauliflower, Raspberries, Blueberries, Grapes (especial like those on the pictures with a lot of cyan component of the overall color dominating), red oranges also called blood oranges, cherry, eggplant, black peas, blackcurrant, etc, etc.
More of a totally crazy Scientific stuff about anthocyanin can be found here, in the US National Library of Medicine, for example: Anthocyanin and Human Health, An In Vitro Investigative Approach
And this one we’d recommend for further reading, little bit easier and smaller in size: Anthocyanins, More Than Nature’s Colours – and we used it as a source of knowledge too, it is curious having a number of interesting facts. Hope you’ll enjoy the reading of the whole thing, yet for me personally it happened to be too far scientific.
Cooking Weed and Berries together?
Why not! Having the said you only imagine that a cheesecake which is hardly infused with both – blueberry and marijuana must be an ultimate weapon, a BFG perfect weapon against many health issues, I can see that now (ha!ha!ha!)
Download the Cookbook app here: The Weed Edible Recipes by Chef420
This is already a small scientific job for a true hobbyist, if you feel passionate enough to maximize yields greatly by using worms, sand, clay or some your very own unique mix of nutrients. Quite an exciting quest – to design your own recipe for the best performing cannabis soil.
The Easy Guide for cannabis soil
This basic guide explains where to start from and what are the options. The first step however is to choose your basic soil, that you’ll find comfortable and most exciting to work with. Explore what is in the market, maybe you wish some specific parameters of NPK of some specific basic soil to start your experiments from. All professionally mixed soils may have different origins or the purpose, and the most of the commercially distributed cannabis soils from the grow shops contain common components such as Vermiculite, Sand and of course Humus.
1. Sand Soil use for cannabis growing
The issue with the sand soil is that it allows water to go through too quickly, it may result more frequent watering if you do not wish your plants to suffer and produce less or less potent weed in the end, and also wastes a whole lot of minerals instead of giving them to plants. However, designing your own soil, you can add sand or silt for improving the drainage properties.
2. Clay Soil use for cannabis growing
Clay is basically made of fine-grained rock material with a little of quartz (SiO2), fully loaded with aluminium and magnesium oxides (Al2O3 and MgO respectively). Clay is plastic when well moisted and hard when dry, it hosts the roots of your plants quite badly due to lack of ventilation. However you can add clay as 5-10% of the soil mass to manipulate ventilation property, when designing your own most efficient soil mix.
3. Humus Soil use for cannabis growing
Humus is the mix of organic matters like dead plants, for example, rotten fully to the end and already became a soil, so this is a “usual soil” what everybody means saying “soil”. Any regular grow shop (even if not any special cannabis grow shop but the normal flower grow shop) can offer you this very basic soil. And for cannabis this is the main material too like for any other plant.
Sometimes humus may be called compost, but to be precise the compost is the mix of humus and manure, which is the great thing too – you can guess: Cows are poor digesters, they intake about 15% and the rest 85% of yummi stuff goes into manure full of nutrients by that reason – and this is what every cannabis plant wants the most. Also manure is good for worm casting [ read below – touch this link to skip to worm casting below on this page ].
4. Nitrogen and other NPK members in Cannabis soil
Nitrogen is produced from soil matter by bacterias “converting” organic forms of nitrogen into mineral forms of nitrogen, and the latter can be consumed by plants. Cannabis plants love nitrogen and especially on the vegetative stage it helps them to grow better with bigger leaves and stronger stems. The overdose of nitrogen fertilisers may result burns on leaves and weaker plant in general (see below for details).
Lack of Nitrogen in Cannabis soil
Nitrogen deficiency is the most common weed grower’s problem with nutrients.
— Older leaves become yellow or partly yellow;
— The oldest of them may even get completely dry being yellow in colour too;
— The veins (the vascular tissue) may get more of the red colour; Check the back side of the leaves too, sometimes they start from there on the early stage of the problem;
— Younger leaves can also contain yellow areas;
These all the above indicate that the nitrogen is low and you need to add it. Nitrogen fertilisers is the easy thing widely available everywhere. This is the basic compound of the very basic N-P-K model, vital for all plants. Sea bird guano or animal blood may serve as the fast and the potent source of nitrogen for your plant.
Intoxication of Nitrogen for Cannabis plants
— Big and a lot of leaves but they all appear weak and react any stress badly;
— Such plants are abnormally often attacked by pests and deceases, and quite badly in the result comparing to the normal healthy plant;
— Underdeveloped weak roots;
— Week and too plastic stems and branches;
— Small and loose flowers;
— Leaves may become brown and even fall;
Any of the above symptom may mean a serious intoxication from Nitrogen, and obviously this is the sign to decrease the use of Nitrogen fertilisers for your cannabis. And of course it’s better to react the earlier possible. Always keep an eye if any of your plants starts showing Nitrogen intoxication – this is way too important. Keeping notes is also another brilliant idea to master your grower’s skills.
Lack of Phosphorus in cannabis soil – Symptoms
— Slow grow or even sudden stop of any grow;
— Dark leafs more blue than usual (well, they are still green but with certain blue component in the colour);
— Low height of the plants in general;
— Everything smaller and grim )))
However, the above symptoms may indicate that your soil require more Phosphorus now. But with the too high pH level, say higher than 7, the plant cannot intake Phosphorus efficient enough tho there’s plenty of Phosphorus in the soil. In this case – work with pH level instead of adding more Phosphorus.
Lack of Potassium in Cannabis soil
Potassium takes part in the photosynthesis process. And also participates in the synthesis of proteins and amino acids, which come from nitrogen in the form of ammonium, so the interaction between these two nutrients is vital to perform different metabolic processes of plants. Lack of Potassium is bad, and can be detected by the following visual checks:
— Leaves loose colour yet quite healthy looking;
— Increase in number of new branches but weak and thin ones;
— Old leaves are yellow with the certain rusty colour on the edges;
— Rust colour is on the younger leaves in a form of smaller stains, especially on the edges;
— Too late and too short flowering stage (this is the sign for the next harvest already, mind keeping the notes of whatever you’re doing to the plants, that’s the certain way to improve your grower’s skills to the highest levels).
Potassium intoxication however is a rare problem. Potassium also provides to the soil the better ability to resist pests and undesirable bacterias. Also affects chlorophyl positively increasing its amount, and enables the cell division processes – having sufficient amount of Potassium the plant takes light better and exchange with the air more effectively. In other words, more healthy and strong plant in general you will get.
5. The Pot
The roots of a cannabis plant require space, and it is a very common mistake when roots go curving around in some too narrow pot. Give space to your cannabis, a lot of space. Recommended 8 to 15 litres pot for a plant. Give a first-class space to your plants to reach the best results from your soil experiments!
6. Nutrients (fertilizers) for Cannabis, N-P-K
As soon as N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium where “K” comes from its Latin name and used in chemistry for Potassium) are the main elements required for the plant to grow well and healthy, the nutrients delivered to the market fit this demand nicely. They normally appear liquid in the bottle, and marked something like 12–6-6, which means 12% of N-Nitrogen, 6% of P-Phosphorus, 6% of K-Potassium. The rest may be water with or without other nutrients of the “second class” if I may.
7. Use of Worms in Cannabis Soil
The recommended worms are the Red Wigglers (on the upper picture), also known as Eisenia fetida or Red Californian Earthworm, and the other commercially distributed worm good for cannabis is the Night Crawlers (in the below picture). Both images are from wikipedia. Both these species of worms can be found anywhere, the Nightcrawlers are larger in size… I dun’no, try both to see the difference, or just choose one following your feeling, whichever of them seems more romantic to you, by the picture or for real in the grow shop, they are gonna be your pets for awhile, hahaha )))
Use cow manure for worms
If using worms for growing your cannabis, then mind the cow manure (if the situation allows – I mean mom or neighbours)))) Both worms and plants love cow manure, as soon as cows only digest 15% of what they eat and the rest 85% goes into manure, rich as hell with nutrients by that reason.
What worms do for the soil
Worms prove life and health to the soil and consequently to the plant. They are a natural fertiliser, making the environment of your plants rich in nutrients and minerals. Worms consume the organic matter and it goes through the digestion and what is left – called worm casting. Kind of a worm poo.
Their castings contain tons of bacteria, fungi, and other serious things.
— Worm castings improve the germination and the full growing process;
— More of your favourite fertilizer can be used with less fear to damage the plant;
— Worm castings in cannabis soil efficiently hold water and nutrients;
— Worms through their castings provide microorganisms and minerals to the soil, increasing disease resistance greatly;
They are good guys, these worms, you can see that.
Using properly LED lights for growing weed indoors is the essential and vital for the plants and for the quality of the future marijuana harvest. Read how to avoid the common problems, how to choose a led-light for the best efficiency and how to install it properly inside a home growing space: proper distance, proper schedule, enough power, …
Modern LED grow-lights already have a wider light spectrum for a better, greener and healthier growth, and as the specialized lenses have been developed to point the light directly onto the plants to increase light penetration, yields are much bigger than when compared to the models from just a couple of years ago. This guide to using LED lights for growing the indoor medical weed will tell you everything you need to know to have a successful harvest.
Why Choose LED Grow Lights?
There are several different types of grow-lights to choose from, so why are LEDs the best choice:
1) LED grow lights are cutting edge and use a customized light spectrum for the best growing results. They evolve permanently, and entertain us with new inventions like COB, for example, which is a new chip-on-board technology for lightening your home crops of hemp or weed, whatever your reason is.
3) There is no need for any ducting or exhaust system – LED grow lights can simply be hung in place over the plants and allowed to cool down by themselves
4) LED grow lights produce a higher yield for a comparable amount of electricity than CFL grow lights as they are more efficient
5) LED lights require no daily adjustment
6) This form of lighting produces less heat than a more traditional CFL set up and comes with a range of convenient cooling options such as in-built fans and heatsinks so maintaining a comfortable temperature is easy
7) LED lights offer a “plug and play” lighting system, allowing them to simply be plugged straight into the wall with no need for a ballast
How Far From The Plants Do The LED Lights For Growing Need To Be?
One of the things to watch out for when using LED grow lights is that they must be placed at a greater distance from the plants than traditional CFL lighting, and this means that you need sufficient height in your growing space. LED grow lights must be kept at least 30cm to 45cm away from the top of the plants – a big different when compared to the few inches which is suitable for CFL lights.
Many LED lights come with manufacturer’s guidelines as to where to the height at which to place the lights above the plants, however many growers produce good results by starting higher and then moving lower towards the tops of the plants as they grow. When using 400W or 600W LEDs, some manufacturer’s recommend beginning as high as 90cm and then gradually lowering their height to around 18” over the course of two weeks. Although lights vary between manufacturers, a general guide to the correct height for LEDs is as follows:
24” (60 cm)
24” to 30” (from 60 cm to 75 cm)
18” to 24” (from 45 cm to 60 cm)
12” to 18” (30 cm to 45 cm)
How To Use Your LED Lights For Growing
When choosing LED grow lights, often you will find that you achieve a better result when using several small panels rather than a couple of larger ones. For example, two 125W LEDs (with a total of 250W) often produces a better result than a single 250W model and this is because it is easier to spread the light around to the most needed spots with more panels.
LED lights for growing with a 3W chipset are generally the most effective at producing a larger yield and are unlikely to burn the tips of the plants. Overall, you should aim for 50W to 60W per square foot of growing space when buying LED panels to get the best result.
Avoiding Common LED Grow Light Problems
Although LED lights for growing produce great results, they can be tricky to get to grips with since they grow plants in a different way to other types of grow lights.
One of the main problems is that if the lights are placed to close to the top of the plants, they can cause the leaves to become discolored, in the same way as a nutrient deficiency woord, even if you know the nutrient levels are ok. This is an especially common situation during the budding/flowering phase, particular toward the end of the flowering phase. The tops of the buds may also bleach due to excessive light, so it’s important, therefore, to keep the lights a minimum of 30cm to 45cm inches from the tops of the plants to guard against this light burn problem. You will be able to tell if your plants are suffering from light burn as opposed to nutrient deficiency because the lower leaves will look healthy and green while the top ones look discolored.
Another thing to watch out for is the possibility of accidentally over-watering your plants. This often happens when switching from more traditional grow lights which produce a lot of heat since plants grown in hot environments need a lot of water. As LEDs produce considerably less heat, less water will be required and giving your plants too much can result in damage. The roots of your plants will need oxygenation in order to grow quickly, and over watering will reduce this process, thus reducing yield and plant growth.
Since LEDs produce less heat than traditional grow lights, you may also need to think about investing in a heater for your growing space, especially if you live in a colder environment. You may have been used to your traditional lighting providing sufficient heat for your plants to grow, but without this added warmth, your plants may fail to flourish unless you add an additional heat source.
LED grow lights are a costly investment, so you need to make sure that you take good care of them. While the money that you spend on this light type offsets the expenses of other types of lights such as venting systems, air conditions, reflectors and ballasts, not to mention the excessive electricity consumption, you could find that your LED lights for growing can be damage if a lot of high wattage devices have been connected to the circuit as this can result in voltage fluctuations which may damage the power drivers in the lights which provide power for the diodes. This is especially important to note if you are powering your grow space with solar energy, since this type of system is prone to power surges and spikes. The best way to take care of your LED lights for growing is to buy a power stabilizer which can regulate the voltage being emitted from the power box, eliminating the power fluctuations which could damage your device.
One further problem to look out for is a possible magnesium and calcium deficiency in your plants. This is again because of the lower heat levels that LED lights produce. Since the plant leaves will transpire less moisture then when grown under an HPS system, this means that the magnesium and calcium ions will be less mobile, thus causing deficiencies that will need to be correct with extra nutrients. Although this is a simple problem to rectify, it’s important to be aware that it could occur, since the soil will already contain the right level of magnesium and calcium. The good news is that supplemental magnesium and calcium nutrients can easily be bought in grow shops and will solve this issue quickly and easily.
The Advantages of LED Lights
One of the greatest advantages of switching to an LED grow light system is that they can hugely save on electricity. As an energy efficient form of lighting, LEDs can cut your bills dramatically since they use up to 60% less electricity than more traditional forms of grow lights. Another advantage of LED grow lights is that they reduce your growing footprint, especially when compared with running HPS systems which draw a lot of energy.
For even greater convenience, LED grow lights provide full spectrum light wavelengths, and that means that there isn’t any need to switch your bulbs for the flowering and vegetative stages, since one set will work for both phases of your plants’ growth. Since LEDs also produce up to 80% less heat, it is much easier to climate control and vent the growing area, and much cheaper too, especially if you’ve been using an air conditioner to keep the space at an appropriate temperature.
One further advantage is that LEDs contain UV light for less fungus, mold and pests, and as they have a lifespan of up to 50,000 hours, you won’t need to replace them very often. Yes, they may be expensive as an initial outlay, but they recoup the expensive in around four to five growing cycles.
As LED grow lights produce considerably less heat than traditional lighting types, there is no need to water your plants as often since evaporation will be reduced. You’ll also need to add fewer nutrients since the plants will use up their food less quickly due to reduced heat and reduced water. This means you’ll have much less maintenance to worry about, less chance of unwanted nutrient build up in your growing medium and also less risk of accidentally over-fertilizing. Not to mention the cost savings that you’ll enjoy too!
LED grow lights are also known for producing a better aroma and taste than other types of grow lights since the lower temperatures in the growing space allows more flavonoids and terpenes to stay inside the plant tissues instead of being lost into the atmosphere. This means that there will be a less strong smell in your growing area and a more tasty and flavorful bud.
Since LED grow lights are conveniently and much smaller than bulky HPS lights, they will take up a lot less room in your growing space. This means that you can use a small grow tent for a more discreet approach, or grow more plants in your available space than you would have been able to with larger lights.
With the advantages of switching to LED grow lights becoming clear , it’s easy to see why they have become so popular with growers over the last few years. Modern LEDs are powerful yet efficient and are also cheaper to run compared to older style lighting systems, and since they run cooler they are a much more convenient solution to growing at home.
As they are optimized to the plant light spectrum, they provide a customized approach to growing that doesn’t waste energy and yet produces an impressive yield and product. As time goes on, it’s likely that even more people switch to this style of grow light as their benefits are fully realized.